Fashion and politics / edited by Djurdja Bartlett. - 239 pages : colour illustrations ; 26 cm

Includes bibliographical references and index.

Preface -- I. Political fashion, fashionable politics. Can fashion be defended? / Djurdja Bartlett -- II. Reform or revolution. Fashion: an oriental tyranny in the heart of the West? / Barbara Vinken -- Wang Guangmei's crimes of fashion: the politics of dress in China's Cultural Revolution / Jin Li Lim -- Style activism: the everyday activist wardrobe of the Black Panther Party and rock against racism movement / Carol Tulloch -- III. Bodies and borders. Bombshell: fashion in the age of terrorism / Rhonda Garelick -- Insurgent trend: the popularity of the keffiyeh / Jane Tynan -- Photo essay: The uniform, the subject, the power / Gabi Scardi -- IV. Resistance or recuperation. Dressing the opposition: sartorial resistance on Europe's political left / Anthony Sullivan -- Photo essay: Three pairs of khaki trousers, or how to decolonise a museum / Erica de Greef -- 'Thrown away like a piece of cloth': fashion production and the European refugee crisis / Serkan Delice.

A timely and splendidly illustrated global exploration of the complex intersections of fashion and politics from the mid-19th century to the present day. Taking a multifaceted look at a topic of widespread fascination, this pioneering book presents new research on the intersection of fashion and politics through incisive essays by the field's leading voices, including both renowned and emerging fashion scholars. The texts unpack fashion between the mid-19th century and today as expressions of nationalism, terrorism, surveillance, and individualism, as well as a symbol of capitalism. The first section explores the political potential of fashion despite its immutable status as a commodity. The second section offers a historical account of the political nature of dress, such as the fashion of dissent within Mao's Cultural Revolution and the Black Panther movement. The ways bodies are defined by dress-the entanglement of oppression and expression-is the theme of the third section. A fourth and final section explores contemporary issues in the practice and theory of dress, from the processes of decolonizing museum collections to the recent sartorial styles of Europe's political Left. The book's incisive and beautifully illustrated essays provide a timely investigation of an underdeveloped topic through a variety of historical and current formats, including public and personal archives, fashion magazines, political newspapers, museum displays, art, and social media.

9780300238860

GBB9A0575 bnb

019427033 Uk


Fashion--Political aspects.
Clothing and dress--Political aspects.
Fashion--Philosophy.

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