TY - BOOK AU - Mackinney-Valentin,Maria TI - Fashioning Identity: Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion T2 - Dress and Fashion Research Ser SN - 9781474249119 U1 - 746.92 PY - 2017/// CY - London PB - Bloomsbury Publishing Plc KW - Electronic books N1 - Intro -- Half Title -- Series Information -- Title Page -- Contents -- Illustrations -- Preface -- Acknowledgments -- 1 Introduction: Status Ambivalence and Fashion Flows -- Politics of appearance -- Dressing the part -- Sartorial dialectic of identity -- Fashion flows -- Vertical flow -- Horizontal flow -- Upward flow -- Scattered flow -- Fashioning identity -- Chapter outlines -- 2 Yesterday's Tomorrow: Fashion and Time -- The ambiguous now -- Between dowdy and hideous -- Style revivals -- Old fashion -- Forever after -- 3 Perfectly Wrong -- Taxonomy of age -- Corporeal patina -- Logic of wrong -- Senior moment -- Staged ageing -- Age ambiguity -- Conspicuous poverty -- Radical permanence -- 4 Copy Chic and the Ambivalent Original -- Modes of copying -- Fashion IPR -- 'Tis the season -- The Chinatown tote -- Copy chic? -- 5 Sartorial Shrugs and Other Fashion Understatements -- Sartorial shrugs -- Inconspicuous consumption -- Fashionable displays of the ordinary -- Deliberate lagging -- Staged casualness -- The fashion nun -- Biological capital -- Fashioned bodies -- Raw beauty -- Lazy chic -- Identity assemblage -- 6 Not So Fast Fashion: the New Perseverance -- The new speed of fashion? -- Gradual change -- Spot on -- Forever new -- Beyond saturation? -- Fashionable implications -- 7 The Devil's Playground: Fashion and Subcultural Identity -- Metal visual culture -- The T-shirt -- Fashion and subculture -- Subcultural persistence -- The band T-shirt -- Copenhellsters vs. Copenhipsters -- Mass-niche -- Multigenerational subcultures -- Humor and inverted snobbery -- Next step for fashioning subcultural identity -- 8 Trans-global Narratives -- "B" is for ball -- Soccer history -- Cultural exchange -- World dress -- The soccer jersey as fashion -- Fashioning goals -- "Welcome to our club" -- Transnational fandom -- Individualization; Cultural ambivalence -- 9 Fashioning Zeitgeist -- Fashion as a mirror -- Low-calorie realism -- Warp and weft -- The great outdoors -- Blue collar chic -- Gender and sexuality -- Is there a "right" zeitgeist? -- Afterword -- References -- Index -- Copyright Page UR - https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/rave/detail.action?docID=6164676 ER -