Reviews provided by Syndetics

Publishers Weekly Review

Basque-born Cristobal Balenciaga, one of the leading couturiers of this century, found his metier in dress design early, spurred by his mother's work as a dressmaking teacher. Encouraged further by a noblewoman's interest in his talents, Balenciaga, aged 24, opened his first couture house in 1919. Journalist Demornex and Balenciaga archivist Jouve trace the development of his long career, which endured until the master's retirement in 1971, a year before his death. Balenciaga's famous draping technique, inspired by the paintings of Zurbaran, led to the creation of fantastic silhouettes (Colette, Marlene Dietrich and the Duchess of Windsor were among his clients), exemplified in evening dresses with enormous, jutting shoulders or full skirts bunched at calf level. Another trademark was lavishly ornamented fabric, such as a black muslin crisscrossed with ruched black lace. An informative text and 600 illustrations--200 in color, 190 in duotone--remind us of Balenciaga's brilliance and its sources in life and art. (Oct.) (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved

Booklist Review

Austere and remote, devoted to elegance derived from elimination of detail via precision of cut, Cristobal Balenciaga is considered this century's greatest couturier. This superb volume explicates Balenciaga's Spanish background and influences--the paintings, especially of Zurbaran; the colors of the bullring; Spanish national costumes; and an almost religious harmony given to a garment's cut and construction. Balenciaga possessed a rare and unequaled technique of immense simplicity that emphasized pure form. He changed the shape of clothing previously thought standardized, often leaving his work--like many great artists--misunderstood as too subtle or radical. (He pioneered the stand-away collar, the three-quarter-length sleeve, and the 1950s sack-dress.) From his humble beginnings in Guetaria on the Spanish Cantabrian coast to the closing of his couture house on the famed Avenue George V in 1968 and, finally, his death in 1972, this important volume encompasses the life of a taciturn man who loathed publicity yet became the consummate master couturier. Accompanied by more than 800 illustrations and photos; chronologies; and list of exhibitions. Highly recommended for those collections that can afford it. --Janet Lawrence